Seastacking in Donegal June 2025

Friday-

After a long drive from Belfast, the midges greeted us in full force. Both Fergus and Peter unfortunately had the elastic on their tent poles go, which lead to learning some creative ways to fix a tent! The group was exhausted, so we decided to go to Leo's Tavern for some pub food! We nestled around a couple of tables, pouring over guidebooks with anticipation of the new climbs awaiting us tomorrow!

Saturday-

Half of the group went to Cruit, an island connected by a small bridge with a golf course and loads of climbing in the friendlier grades. John’s favourite climb here was Bren’s Brunch, an HS with a lovely flake to start and good protection throughout. Fergus was happy to get a few more trad seconds under his belt as well!

While the rock is beautifully grippy, our hands were shredded by the end of the day! The group couldn’t face going back and cooking dinner, so we made an executive decision to go to a tiny chippy in Annagry to speed eat pizza at 9pm.

The other half of the group went seastacking with Iain Miller. They had quite an adventurous day: Kyle achieved two first ascents! The new routes are:

B(CC) Special E2 5b**, Kyle Stewart, Daniel Black 07/06/25 

Face climb, up the middle of the flat wall just right of Armada. Work your way up a few metres until you hit a ledge. Use the pedestal to stepup and left until you reach a good jug. Arrange small gear and attack the good flat holds of the top wall.

Sleepless Hollow HVS 5a **, Kyle Stewart, Daniel Black 07/06/25 

Start 3m left of Davy J nose at small gap between 2protruding blocks from the wall at head height. Climb the wall direct. Good edges make for solid climbing the entire way. Small cams handy for protection.

The rock at Stac an Bhig was a bit chossy, every hold weighted was a bit of a gamble! Despite a few wet shoes, the group had an absolute blast! Vicky’s favourite part was the sketchy down climb they had to do after every climb, and the scramble got harder and harder as the tide came in. Jamie enjoyed the new route Smoking fags & Climbing crags (HS 4a), and had the second lead ascent of Kyle’s new E2! Daniel’s highlight and lowlight of the trip was the same route-America Direct(HVS). There was a terrifying ~30kg rock that was extremely loose, thankfully it stayed in tact!

Sunday-

Even though the weather was not looking very promising, Iain managed to get the second group out for an amazing day of seastacking!

John really enjoyed the VDiff(most argued it was more like an HS) that involved being lowered into an overhanging sea-filled abyss.  

For the non-seastacking group, the route Cave Rave on Cruit was a massive hit! It involved a long traverse just above the waterline, and then a very exposed, but positive ascent over a giant cave. Cave Rave was Richard’s first lead traverse, with Kyle offering key insight into rope management and belaying.

After Cave Rave, the group stopped for lunch. Sadly, the rain came in quite quickly during lunch- we decided to call it a day and start the long journey back to Belfast!

Lake District Easter 2025

Trip participants: Adam W, Caroline S, Josh T, Kyle S, Lisa D-K, Manfei Y, Peter A, Sarah B, Stephanie B, Vicky P, and Vicky W

Trip Report: Manfei Y

Day 1: Racing the Rain on Striding Edge

Our Easter trip this year was based at George Starkey Hut, in the eastern Lake District near Ullswater. Josh and I pulled into the hut bright-ish and early, energized by the crisp morning air and ominous clouds gathering on the horizon. On the way, Josh patiently explained why Good Friday is indeed a good Friday, and I felt thoroughly enlightened (or at least convinced!). With rain forecast to hit hard by the afternoon, we teamed up with Vicky W (who’d arrived the night before and already gone for a run!) and wasted no time — boots were laced, and we launched straight into one of the Lake District’s most iconic scrambles, Striding Edge to the summit of Helvellyn.

Striding Edge. Photo Credit: Manfei

The scramble was thrilling, with gusts of wind whipping across the ridge and every foothold demanding attention (though not for the undefeatable Vicky). Spirits were high despite the looming weather. We reached the summit just as the sky brightened with a touch of sunshine. Were we going to dodge the rain after all? I thought. We snapped some windswept photos and began our descent, just before the first drops began to fall. Turns out, putting on waterproofs had magical powers — the moment we zipped them up, the rain decided to take a break.

Credit: Adam; Photo: Place Fell

Meanwhile, the majority of the group’s journey was less straightforward. A delayed ferry crossing meant they (Adam, Kyle, Lisa, Peter, Sarah, Stephanie and Vicky P) arrived mid-afternoon — right into the pouring rain. Undeterred, they geared up in full waterproofs and managed a damp but determined hike to Place Fell. Back at the hut, Vicky W, Josh, and I began peeling vegetables for Vicky’s iconic sausage, gravy, mashed potatoes, and veggies — a club trip essential.

Day 2: Clouds, Crags, and Courage

The morning brought thick clouds and cool breezes, but spirits weren’t dampened. After conquering the daily crux — parking, the group set off toward Shepherd’s Crag, one of the Lake District’s best-loved climbing spots.

Caroline, Sarah, and Stephaine headed up to Upper Shepherd’s Crag, while Adam, Josh, Peter, and I stayed l in the busy Chamonix Area, hopeful for a shot at the legendary multipitch route Little Chamonix (no luck, as it turned out). Lisa and Vicky P continued to the Brown Slabs Area. Josh and I opted for Donkey's Ears (S) — a two-star, three-pitch route. We bailed on the last pitch, which was damp, but the view was stunning. From our stance, I could see climbers’ bums on Little Chamonix right in my face. I wish I wish!

Credit: Stephanie ; Photos: Shepherd’s Crag

By the afternoon, we all converged at Brown Slabs. It was there that Josh encouraged me to lead my first trad route of the season — Brown Slabs Direct (VDiff), without fully realising what he, as belayer had signed up for. An hour or two? (and several deep breaths and swear words) later, I topped out, with Lisa’s help on anchor building. The clouds finally lifted just before sunset, revealing breathtaking views — sprawling hills and glittering lakes all around. Adam, Peter, and I dashed back to the hut to prep dinner — only for me to discover that Peter is better at cooking rice than I am (disclaimer: only when using a pot). It was a humbling moment.

Day 3: Sunny Sends and Easter Feasts

Finally, a full day of sunshine! Spirits soared as most of the crew made their way to the majestic Castle Rock of Triermain. Caroline and Stephaine ventured off to a different crag — I’ve forgotten the name, but the photos looked nice!

Josh and Kyle set off to tackle the North Crag, taking on a hardcore session on top-rated E2 routes with some bold sky hook-assisted climbing. Meanwhile, the rest of us headed for the more forgiving South Crag, where we all got a taste of Yew Tree Climb (VDiff), Gangway Climb (HVD), and Via Media (S). Despite the good weather, communication at this crag was a real challenge. Shouting was useless, phone calls between the lead climbers and belayers became the norm.

Credit: Peter and Josh ; Photos: Castle Rock of Triermain

Via Media was a standout: exposed, with some bold moves. I seconded Sarah on it and all the way up, I could only think — how on earth did she lead this?! Also, her shiny new cam sets gleamed in the sun like jewellery — beautiful stuff, especially with how solidly they were placed.

We wrapped up the day with a cozy Easter Sunday pub dinner near the hut. Between hearty meals and well-earned pints, we discovered Kyle and Vicky W’s superpower, the Last Crumb Crusaders. No plate was safe under their watch — not a chip or crumb left behind.

Photo: Castle Rock of Triermain; Credit: Adam

While the author of this trip report (Manfei) was not able to attend days three or four of the trip due to other commitments the rest of the trip conquered two other famous lake district scrambles due to ‘dodgy’ conditions. The first of these were sharp edge (grade 1) up Blencathra (which had the most disappointing summit I have personally ever seen (a broken stone circle, no cairn or trig!) which was then followed by a delightful duck race.

The second was Tower Ridge (grade 3) which Kyle successfully managed to find some nice VS crack climbs within.

El Chorro 2025

The Belfast Climbing Club had a very early start on Sunday to make our 7am flight! After some much needed coffee, the group took off to Malaga. The drive to El Chorro was treacherous, with the sat nav leading some of us down a tiny dirt road with a surprise river crossing. After setting down our bags at Finca La Campana, the group wasted no time and set off for Rocabella. With a very short walk-in, many people were able to get 2-3 climbs in before the head-torches came out. One of the group’s favourites was a 5c-Mascha went to the World Cup, it started off steep and pumpy and then turned into a more thoughtful climb.

On Monday, most of the group headed to Serena, the highest part of the ridge of Frontales. Serena was the perfect crag to warm up on, with friendly grades and plenty of sun! Owen and Louisa braved the freezing waters of the hostel pool to cool down after a long day of climbing.

On Tuesday the group headed to Valle de Abdalajis, a slabby crag with more trad-style climbs. Owen managed to squeeze in a quick chimney climb before the rain finally forced the group to retreat back to the hostel.

On Wednesday, Gemma and Louisa decided to set off on a huge muti-pitch. Owen headed to Frontales to knock out Sexo, Hierba y Vertical, a steep, juggy three star route. Conor, Owen, Paul, and Daniel then headed to Escalera Arabe to try another 6b climb, called El Canalillo de la Mari, a challenging corner climb. Michael sent his 7a project, and the group celebrated with a bottle of prosecco!

On Thursday, Michael returned to route after working with a mate a couple of months ago. After sending his 7a project the day before, he had no plans to climb hard that day. But Michael’s Elvis leg didn’t stop him from cruising through the crux of Cita en Sevilla(7B).

The Friday was intended to be a rest day with downpours predicted all day. However, a few of us were up for an early breakfast, and Michael suggested getting just one cheeky climb in the morning before the rain came. Ashley, Mike, and Paul didn't take much convincing, and we drove down to Frontales to try out Putiferio. It was a powerful climb, with big sidepulls and high rock-overs. Tania, Ash, Sarah, and Cillian joined later to try El Virgo de Vicentela, a 6b+ that is in the top 50 climbs in El Chorro! The rain started just before lunchtime, so the group headed back to the hostel, where the group played foosball, and then later started a ping pong competition(with Owen the clear winner!). After some dinner and some wine passed around the table, Tania broke out her famous Piggy PIggy board game.

On Saturday everyone was keen to fit in any climbs they hadn’t managed to send during the week. Ashley and Richard finished off the holiday with Rock me Amadeus. It started with a tricky undercling to then pull-up over a slightly overhung rock face. Ash and Conor finished the holiday with Edelweiss(4c), a super-exposed angeled rib. While the grade was friendly, it was sparsely bolted and quite airy at the top! When it was looking like the rain was going to start, the group packed it in and headed back to the hostel for some well deserved pizza!

The day the club left was bittersweet. It was pouring rain, so at least we weren’t missing out on perfect climbing weather! It was hard to say goodbye to El Chorro, but the good times had throughout our journey will stick with all of us!

BCC Trip Dates 2024-2025

A Tale of Two Trips – Inishowen 2024

Trip Participants: Ash O’Brien, John Lyster, Matthew Campbell, Richard Mott and Steph Buijs

Happy Camping! Photo Credit: AO’B

Initially, the 2024 Inishowen trip was planned for the late August bank holiday weekend, but in line with much of the summer, the forecast was rotten and with excuses as weak as “I don’t want to be washed into the sea and die”, numbers quickly diminished.  Eventually, just Ash and I headed up on the Saturday night with the hope of a few dry hours on the Sunday.  The campsite did not disappoint – it was quite and secluded, with the noise of the waves crashing on the rocks below only drowned out by the rain hammering down on the tents!

The following day brought the forecasted dry weather, and we handed over to Dunmore Head as it is “the most popular crag in Inishowen, owing to its convenience and the huge concentration of routes at all grades, some of which are excellent”.  The first issue was getting to the crag, which can be seen from the road, but is protected by 200m of waist high brambles.  There is a path, but it takes some finding.

At the start of Catatra Crack.  A bit of gardening required! Photo Credit AO’B

Having found the crag, the next problem was that we had failed to bring a strimmer, pressure washer and wire brushes.  Overgrown would be an understatement, not helped by everything being soaking from serval days of heavy rain.

We started on Catatra Crack, which was quite a nice V.Diff with anchor stakes at the top.  We then moved to Dusty Mayday, which was very much not a V.Diff (read UKC before you try a new route)!  The final route on that slab was OXO in October, a nice S, just very overgrown at the top.  With the rain due to come in, and having seen enough of dolphins hunting in the bay, we called it a day.  The highlight was that both of us picked up our first ‘crag swag’, which proves we weren’t the first people to climb there recently, despite the vegetation!

A revised Inishowen trip was then planned for 7-8 September, as the weather forecast looked to be better.  On the Saturday morning, John, Steph, Matthew, Ash and I headed straight for Malin Head with the aim of tackling The Cutting Edge, a 3-star 5 pitch V.Diff.

Stunning photos from the day at Malin Head. Photo credits: A O’B, JL, and SB

Weather was absolutely stunning, possibly the best day of the year, and The Cutting Edge did not disappoint – it’s a 3-star route for a reason.  John and I climbed first taking it in turn to lead, with Matthew, Steph and Ash close behind us climbing as a three.  After the third pitch there was some abseil tat which had been placed to avoid a rather unpleasant and unprotected scramble down to the start of the next pitch.  The ropes where in good order, but the carabiner had seen better days, so John donated one of his to the noble cause.  Matthew didn’t like the look of John’s carabiner, so donated a second.  Consider this our contribution to the Colmcille Climbing Club!

At sunset we all headed to the campsite to pitch tents before heading to the pub.  It was at this point that we discovered that we were sharing the campsite with a crowd that were clearly intent on partying hard.  With tents up, we headed into Culdaff to eat, drink and swap stories of the day’s daring deeds.   I can personally endorse the quality of the Guinness in the Culdaff Arms. 

Returning to the campsite at midnight, we found the vodka-fueled part only just getting started.  We headed to our tents, but I don’t think anyone got to sleep before 4.30 am.  Annoyance at being kept awake was tempered slightly by being in earshot of the “I don’t want to be your f***ing girlfriend” conversation at 4 am! Ahhh, young love…..

Richard on Novice Outing. Photo Credit: SB

The following morning, Ash and Matthew headed back to Belfast, leaving Steph, John and me to find something else worth climbing.  With the vegetation at Dunmore Head and apparent access issues at Brazil Rock, we opted to head South to Port a Doris.  It was about a 20 min walk in but was well worth the effort.  The crag forms two sides of a small, secluded cove with routes from Diff to HVS.  We climbed Novice Outing as a three, but by this stage the forecasted rain had made an appearance, so we headed on home.

Inishowen has some great potential.  The campsite is great (if you don’t have to share it) and there is some phenomenal climbing at Malin Head, where you could easily spend several days.  I really liked Port a Doris, and if you didn’t mind carrying all your gear in, you could potentially camp on the beach in the secluded cove without being disturbed by anyone.  Let’s get an Inishowen trip in the diary for next summer and hope for some decent weather!

Gola Trip 2024

Trip Report by Tania J-L

Trip Participants: Eva K, Mags O, Ash O’B, Peter A, Tania J-L, Vicky W, Josh T, Kyle S, Chris C, Callum Y, Paul K, Ashley L, Gemma K, Gemma L, Mike McC, Cillian B, Daniel B, Vicky P, Adam W, Michael B, Richard M, Louisa S

Introduction and Day 1.

I joined the club a year ago, and from the beginning, I heard stories about the legendary Gola and its magnificent microclimate and sweet seaside crags. I prepared myself for it, and as new slightly-mediocre-but-still-semi-competent trad climber, I was looking forward to lead my first VS. 

After going through every season of the year on our 3 hours journey, Peter and I finally got to the harbor, only to miss the ferry while seeing our friends sailing away. We  got to cross half an hour later, and after two trips to bring our stuff to the campsite, we finally got to settle and join the lovely colony of climbers formed by our crew by the beach. 

Gola doing it’s thing and being picturesque: Photo Credits: Ashley & Chris

Now, heading to the crag! I heard about Run of the Arrow (VS 4b), a legendary route right by the sea only accessible through abseil, therefore, I didn’t hesitate to join Callum on his quest to lead it. It was a nice climb, slightly wet with a scary first move to access the rest of the route. It was my favorite climb of the trip, with beautiful sights, cool moves and it sure helped make nice pictures! Amazing warm up and perfect introduction to what Gola had to offer.  

Adam Topping out, seeming happy I guess. Photo Credit: Paul K

After a sweet climb on Run of the Arrow, Callum was ready to try harder things, and me ready to second him, so we headed up to do Born Again Climber (E1), a wet route with a bouldery crux, which Callum led like a champ. After that scary and pumpy climb, Callum wanted to venture into something lighter, an HVS, that looked a bit (of course) wet. He started his climb pretty relaxed ready for a more chilled experience, that is until he said: “this is harder than the E1 we just did… I don’t think this is a HVS” …. That got us, Louisa (who just joined us for this climb), and I, in alert mode, as we saw our superstar leader struggling in what was supposed to be a chilled climb. Also, it didn’t help that the crux was slippery and soaking. Anyway, he got out of the crux and finished his climb feeling pumped and confused. Me and Louisa struggled and had to take a break after the crux. My arms were pretty pumped and I felt that it was definitely not a HVS. It was an E2, Castaway, and my spoiled used-to-do-sport-climb-under-dry-conditions ass felt conned but still, satisfied. 

You too can be strong like Callum. Believe in yourself. Photo Credits: Michael

Back to the camp, Peter and I were ready to start our big BBQ plan and join the craic by the fire. Ohhhhh, how we were looking forward to grill some yummy burgers and enjoy a few drinks with the rest of the crew… The weather wasn’t the best, but living on this side of the world gets you prepared to embrace a few drops, so we lit our disposable BBQ grills, and put our patties (I will die on a hill for this, Michael!) on it. Everything cool, a bit of wind but we got our grills lit, then… the drops started multiplying, and the number of friends reducing. More drops and less friends with every passing second. Yep, the weather in the mainland must have been sunshine cause the microclimate of Gola gave us a monsoon. While waiting for our burgers to cook, the time was passing slower than holding a plank, but our heroes Ashley and Michael stood by our side with their umbrellas, protecting the grills.  Our clothes, shoes and even our buns were soaking, but the fire was still on. 

Gripple Wall, Day 2 but the weather wasn’t as good Day 1. Photo Credit: Chris

After a while of natural showers, we decided we didn’t want to keep torturing our friends and relieved them of duty. Michael left his umbrella to help us fulfill the mission. Peter patties were taking ages to cook, but mine, by divine intervention maybe, or because they were veggie based, were cooking very fast, hence, as soon as they were done, I took my burgers and did what every sane person would do: abandoned my grill partner and ate my burgers in the comfort of my tent. 

Not willing risking getting E. Coli, Peter stayed until his patties were well done. Who knows when that happened, but he sent a picture of them after, and he’s still alive! So, it all turned out fine in the end. Except, I discovered my shoes weren’t waterproof anymore, and… I felt conned for the second time that day. 

Day 2.

After surviving what seemed like the second universal flood, I was ready to get more climbs. As usual, I relied on the wisdom of my fellow more experienced trad climbers, which means I didn’t check the guidebook, and to be fair, for this trip it worked well, as I was down for anything within my abilities. 

Meanwhile at NW Zawn, abs were proving…..Photo Credit: Peter A

After being briefly tempted to join Vicky, Josh and others in their quest to (don’t remember the name of the crag), I decided to go to the Inland Crag with another group, as It would allow me to practice my anchoring and gear placement. Ready to lead, I armed myself with the gear that Vicky graciously lent me and recruited my homie Gemma “Lovely” Locke to be my belayer. I was not leaving that crag without leading a VS. We started with Pigs Garden (S 4a) as a nice warm up. Then we did Weathered Window (HS 4b), a slightly more difficult route in which my gear placement abilities were put to test. Now it was time to do Get of the Bandwagon (VS 4a), and after receiving good advice from Cillian, I ventured myself into it. The gear placement was a real struggle for me, and I only could put 3 pieces of gear in the whole route, which made me realize I’m probably not ready to lead harder climbs yet (sorry, Vicky). 

Meanwhile, right next to me, superhero Gemma “Kind” Kane was rocking (no pun intended) her first E1 lead, Days of Wine and Roses (E1 5a). It was a tough battle, but she came out victorious and became our personal feminist icon. 

A day at inland crag, Gemma conquering an E1 and Mags showing that’s she’s really a dirty caver and just wants to find a corner. Photo Credits: Ash and Michael.

Meanwhile at the NW Zawn, Kyle on Vanishing Point. Photo Credit: Peter

After a quick lunch break and a sweet welcome to Mags, Ash and Eva who just arrived to join the fun, we head down to the Gripple wall. With no goal in mind except having fun, Louisa and I decided to second Gemma K. on Maid of Gola (HS), one of the island’s classics. 

The night came and we finally got the nice firepit hangout we missed out the night before. We were lucky to share our space with the nice folks of the Cork Climbing Club, as well.  The fire was glorious, and the majestic sunset by the beach made for the perfect time and scenario to give our little goodbye present to our departing member Josh “Ginger Beast” Taujanskas, who put everyone on the verge of tears with his emotional speech.

Campfires by sunset and the improntu Cork-Belfast Climbing Club Meet, Photo Credits: Callum & Ash

Goodbye, Josh ☹

Day 3 (the end)

Happy shiny (crazy) people in the water. Photo Credit: Tania

After 2 days of absence, the sun finally decided to make an appearance. At around 9 am, resident aliens Gemma K, Gemma L, Michael, Louisa and Daniel submerged their masochist bodies in the freezing waters of the Atlantic. I still struggle to comprehend why would anyone do that to themselves, but they looked happy, so to each their own. 

After a hearty social breakfast by my tent, most of the climbers decided to go to the Main Wall, although different area this time. The crag was not only a great climbing spot, but also perfect for sunbathing.

Vicky on Shagamorant and Cillian on Run of the Arrow. Photo Credits: Callum

I teamed up with Louisa and Ash, while Gemma K showed her infinite kindness by lending us her gear.  Not in the mood to lead anything over a S, we decided to try “Hexes from Heaven” (S 4a), a route Mike and Richard were already working on. When our turn was up and after taking a glimpse of the guidebook, we went for it. To say we were confused would be an understatement. I started on a dark crack under a roof, moved towards the left, and then just kept going until the drag was too heavy to be normal. I had to come back to take some gear off and place it in a different area. It was a struggle until I finally came out of somewhere. Louisa and Ash came out through the same spot I did, and after talking to Mike (who also came out through the same place), we realized we most likely did not do the intended route and did something else instead. Lesson learned: always take a good look at the guidebook before starting a new route. 

Time was running out for me and other climbers that needed to catch the ferry at 4 pm. So, after a bit of thought and not without having a few bites of the heavenly flapjacks that Paul made, I decided to head back to the camp to pack. Peter joined later, and this time we were able to cross to the mainland at the scheduled time.  Goodbye and see you next year, beautiful Gola. 

Goodbye (for now) Gola

Video Credit- Ash

The Magnificent 7(A's)

BCC's Not club trip to Inis Mór

Trip Report by Kyle Stewart

 Starring
Kyle ‘Dubious Tan Lines’ Stewart
Josh ‘Cave Dwelling Vaper’ Taujanskas
Micheal ‘Ah dinnae ken do it’ Barr.
Callum 'Speedy' Young. Fastest quick draws in the North.

4 climbers on a boat. Photo: Kyle Stewart

Prelude to the Wild

Josh and Kyle discuss heading to Inis Mór for a year. We tenuously agree to a week in June and proceed to enjoy the spring and summer climbing season until June frantically appears from nowhere. 

Josh manages to curtail two willing participants in Micheal and Callum into joining us. The week before D-day we snipe a weather window Saturday - Wednesday and book the ferry and camping immediately.

Day 0 – Into the Wild West

We all leave Belfast midday Saturday to catch the 18:30 boat to Inis Mór. A lovely boat ride later with some titanic reenactment (minus the whole sinking debacle) and we land in the harbor at Kilronan. Lugging a ridiculous amount of kit and Michael carrying 20kg of extra food we get to our campsite.

Dumping out kit and pitching our tents we made a run straight to Joe Wattys bar. A must stop for the enterprising sport climber (or reformed traditional climbing addict). We enjoyed some smooth pints of Guinness

Pointe Fiáin Crag from the top. Photo: Kyle Stewart

Day 1 - The Dawn of Reckoning

Kyle on Midnight Hour 7a+.  Photo: Michael Barr

Sunday morning appears and the psych is high. We wake up and head to a fantastically kitted out camper's kitchen for breakfast. Having talked to other climbers we were warned of ticks in the long grass in the walk in. We devise strategies to deal with this mainly involving tucking socks over trousers and letting Michael attract 95% of them with his beautiful tan trousers and alluring scent.

We hit the road and manage the 4.5km walk into the crag. We abseil in and soon discover that the route names “The Green Stuff is Slippy (8a+/b)” and “The Red Stuff Will Kill You (7a+)” are actually very practical advice. . The luminous green algae hides large pools of water waiting for a careless step to send you head over heels or soak a misplaced rope and would be a constant hazard throughout the trip. 

The tactic for the first day of climbing was to get some mileage in over the somewhat limited easier ground of the crag. Micheal and Kyle partnered up whilst Josh tried to show Callum what a clip stick was and whether his trad ethics would consider this aid climbing (Spoiler - No, he's very fond of it).

Kyle started off the show with Entrance Fee. A tricky 6b+ with a bouldery crux. A sign of things to come.

Callum and Josh appropriately started with The Beginning 5a followed by The Cocoon 5c. We then did a cluster of 6’s With the highlight being Dreams of Aran 6c. A fantastic route gaining an awkward corner with a big final move to a good ledge.

Callum trying out the Clipstick.  Photo: Josh Taujanskas

Having tackled some of the 6ish offerings we decide to dip the toes into the meat of the island. 65% of the climbs are in the 7's. Kyle and Micheal head to Piercing Bamba 7a+ and Josh and Callum move around to Midnight Hour 7a+. Kyle manages to climb it after several falls trying to work out the crux sequence. Micheal ties in but can't find the guppy moves through the crux so we move round the corner to find out the progress of the other team. Josh and Callum  have managed to clip 2 bolts. I would call this sub optimal progress considering they were both pre-clipped with the magic stick. Though in fairness there was a massive amount of seepage over several holds. Seepage is a huge issue here after rain, with some lines taking a few days to fully dry out. 

We all take burns at conquering the start. Kyle eventually works out the sequence continuing up and falling at crux no. 2. A bit of a fight later he manages to clip the chains. He sets up a top rope and the team tries to work the route. Josh manages to climb it with a few rests. Callum calls time on his effort to preserve skin and Michael tweaks his finger so bails off. Kyle manages to get the route clean after a few foot misfires on wet holds. The first 7 of the trip and hopefully a sign of good sends to come. 

Day 1 was a long day climbing. We leave the crag at 8pm and just make it to Joe Wattys before they stop serving food. We toast off the night with 4 crisp pints with burgers and chips.

Day 2 - Crossroads at Midnight

We awake for a second day of climbing, get breakfast and make our way to the crag with a quick pit stop in the local Spar. Our bodies are already hurting and we’re feeling unrested from being awoken by strange cow squeals early in the morning. We all probably hit the first day a little hard considering the amount of time we had left on the island. 

Climbs that happened today:

• The Amazing Spiderfear 6b

• Shredder 6b+

• Happy Plaice 6b+

• Déjá Vú 6c

Kyle also climbed the magnificent Tiny Thunder 6C+ at the end of the Day. Callum stepped up next for an attempt but ran out of beans just before the top.

Back to the campsite and we had a group dinner of pizza, burgers, steak, peppers, onion and garlic. A veritable feast to end the day. 

Left: Michael on The Amazing Spiderfear 6b. Photo: Callum Young

Middle: Josh on Shredder 6b+ .  Photo: Callum Young

Right: Callum Jugging out.  Photo: Kyle Stewart

Day 3 - Shadows in the Canyon

A strong climbing day needs a strong breakfast. And after that protein heavy dinner the night before we needed 1 thing. Yes, sausages. Thanks Michael.

Day 3 was try-hard day (project day). Kyle & Josh instantly went to work trying The Orb 7a. After a few hours trading blows on the crux Kyle works out a crux sequence he thinks will work and lowers off to try a full lead burn. Josh tries this beta but can’t get a left hand throw to work. When resting on the ground another set of climbers gave us a completely different beta on the crux. Things got confusing. With the new beta Josh unlocked the first part of the crux but it wasn’t enough to pull through. Kyle adopting some new beta and some old beta finally sticks the whole crux on route and clips the chains, but not before having a nice sit down on a ledge post crux to recover. There might be a 7a way to do that crux. Kyle did not find it. Anyway, that’s the second 7 ascent. 

Kyle went on to try Freight Train Boogie 7b. An intimidating looking line with a massive hard looking start he had been eyeing up all week. Seval misfires at the low crux start and he was off. The steep power endurance section to the 4th bolt was too much and he had to rest. He got to the top with 1 more rest and resolved to come back with a little more skin and power endurance. 

As this was happening, young Michael was working on the Orb. Oblivious to the beta that had gone before he worked out yet another sequence and managed to make it work after desperately flailing to find a usable foothold. The third 7 of the trip and Michaels first of the grade.

Back along the crag Callum and Michael successfully climbed Tiny Thunder 6c+. The first of that grade for Callum, an excellent effort. After a false start (allegedly) due to mild heat stroke, Josh added a third ascent.

At the end of the day we converge on Dyson Swarm 7a. Kyle couldn’t work out the Crux on his first effort so the rest of the team jumped in to have a crack at unlocking the crux. Callum finds some voodoo polished side pull technology and Josh works out the feet into a 3 finger undercling. Kyle promptly nicks the team's beta and uses it to unexpectedly get through the crux straight away. Shear panic at not knowing what to do next, Kyle just throws for holds and somehow manages to make his way successfully up to the chains. Seven no. 4. Draws were left in as 3 of the team had some unfinished business with this route…

Tonight's dinner was a fine Chili Con Carne provided by Josh.

Day 4 - The Final Showdown

Another new day meant a new breakfast. This time a mound of fried bacon, tomato, peppers and eggs were devoured. Ready to make good use of the final days climbing. 

One last walk in and abseil and 4 tired boys try to make the most of the last climbing for the trip. The 2:30 pm deadline to catch the ferry was looming and any unclaimed projects needed ticked. 

Kyle took up duties as support crew and belayer as the other 3 lined up under Dyson Swarm 7a. Monster efforts were traded by the 3. Josh was throwing himself at the crux before retreating away from the sun into his cave abode. Callum was using a hoodie as a turban and Michael either topless or wearing an Arctic rated duck down jacket. Callum manages to make the crux move before falling on a damp crimp above. Annoyed but psyched he was strong enough to make the move, Callum retreats to drink some limestone filtered moss water (quality stuff) and then throws himself into another lead. This time he nails the crux and the following move to climb his first 7a (5/7). Michael, not feeling strong enough to use the undercling, goes full send mode and just decides to dyno through the problem. Michael almost holds the catch but tears his skin and he can’t hold it. A nasty cut leaves a small blood offering at the base of the route and means he bows out of the game to lick his wounds.

Callum, happy with his morning sends, agrees to go with Kyle to try and claim the striking arete Piercing Bamba 7a+. After a few mishaps in the sweaty sun Kyle conquers the guppy layback crux with a scream and promptly dispatches the top section with relative ease. (6/7) A truly striking arête which is the first thing you see looking down into the Pointe Fiáin area.

And then there was one. It's leaving time and Josh is still working on Dyson Swarm. Does he need this send to make his trip worthwhile? No, but that doesn’t mean it wouldn’t be nice. 

There’s time for one last attempt. Josh pulls up into the start sequence, now very smooth after doing it too many times. He takes a deep breath under the crux. Chalks up and dials in the foot sequence. He hits the side pull, cranks in on the undercling and lunges for the crux. Anticipation… he slaps for the ledge and gets it. Come on! The magnificent 7 7s complete.

Kyle on  Piercing Banba 7a+  Photo: Michael Barr

Josh finally managed Dyson Swarm 7a with the last chance of the trip. Photo: Callum Young

Tired boys on the boat home. Photo: Josh Taujanskas

Donegal Trip Report May 2024

Trip report compiled by Josh T with contributions from Mike M, Ashley L, Jamie R and Michael B.

Trip participants: Josh T, Vicky W, Ashley L, Louisa S, Jamie R, Manfei Y, Michael B, Callum Y, Sevan H, Stephanie B, Liam D, Kyle S, Mike M.

17th-19th May

Friday Evening at Muckross Head - Josh T

With a surprisingly dry forecast for the weekend, Sevan and I raced out of work on Friday to meet Callum for a few evening routes at Muckross Head. Despite a chilly breeze Callum and Sevan capably dispatched leads of Morning Glory (HS 4b) and Boho Dance (S 4a) before a less successful attempt of Cois Farraige (VS 4c) from myself (I’d be back…). Louisa and Ashley joined to soak in the sunset, bringing leftover chips from Killybegs which were extremely gratefully received! As the light faded we headed back to the lovely Derrylahan Hostel to meet the rest of the crew.

Josh on his nemesis, Cois Farriage Photo credits: Callum.

Saturday at Malinbeg - Mike M

‘Right, so up at 7am then and away at 7:30’, I suggested. In hindsight, I think because I was only there for one day I was afraid I would not get enough climbing done. How wrong was I? In any event my 07:00 breakfast got negotiated down a bit though I think we were on the road by 8:30.

Left: Mike leading Carrig Una. Right: Sevan on Calvin’s Corner. Photo credits: Josh.

We soon arrived at Malinbeg and made the rather short walk to the one of the many climbing areas - Neptune’s wall. I led Carrig Una, a 2-star Diff., hard for the grade in the opinion of the UKC voters. Solid, great warm-up, confidence building. It was fantastic to see Ashley do her first outdoor trad lead on it straight after. Smooth and confident, she smashed it. We jumped on The Bosun’s Ladder next, a 3-star S 4a classic that I had spotted the last time I was there. I thought it was too wet and slippy that day. Not this time. This proved to be a great wee climb, not sure its memorable enough to give 3 stars but it was fun. Sevan and Josh were climbing close by on Shaky Rigging and looking anything but shaky. They cruised by while waited on the ledge for Sevan to get well above. Another wee run up Carrig Una on second and it was time for a snack and then round the corner to the Hulk Wall. I really enjoyed this climb, climbing on excellent holds with tiny gear and a strenuous final move over the top. Fab!  After a couple more similar routes on this wall, myself and my climbing partners were starting to get tired and decided to head over to join the rest of the gang at Muckross. The guidebook sums up my experience of Malinbeg perfectly: “The sea cliffs at Malin Beg provide a very attractive combination of good clean rock, easy access, and as this corner of the county sits far out into the rain shadow it sees a lot less rain than the uplands of Donegal. The routes are short, mainly in the lower grades and consequently a rather relaxed atmosphere prevails”.

Saturday at Muckross - Michael B

Left: Some bad rope management by Vicky on Headland Right: Jamie on E2?. Photo credits: Louisa & Callum.

The day began with a cool and cloudy morning, perfect for an invigorating start to our climbing adventures. Upon arrival at the sea cliffs, we were greeted by a pod of dolphins, a delightful start to our day at Muckross. An exciting addition was the presence of the Coastguard, who welcomed Callum and Michael at the top of their first climb, ‘Froth’. Michael and Callum enjoyed watching Jamie and Kyle tackle some challenging moves on an E2 5c route called ‘The Cabbage’. Inspired by this, Callum and Michael took on Micky Mouse, an E1 5b, with Callum leading and breezing to the top.

As the afternoon progressed, the rest of the group joined us and we continued the day under the beautifully warm sun. Sevan almost earned a new nickname, ‘Mad Dog’, for contemplating a swim in the Atlantic, though he ultimately decided against it. Perhaps the name ‘Mad Dog’ should go to the local climber who down-soloed ‘Flake Out’, a 13m Severe, on which Sevan and Mike were topped out. Apparently, for him, this was the ‘easiest way down’!

The successes of the day included Manfei’s first lead on ‘Definitely the Beach’ with Vicky seconding. Callum, on his 5th or 6th climb, sent his first E2 , “The Importance of Being Elvis” [editor's note: malicious rumours of it being E1 are unfounded], and completed 8 routes in total.Other highlights from the afternoon include Louisa’s superb effort seconding up ‘Nuts and Berries’, an HVS 5a route and then Josh’s return to tackle and successfully lead ‘Cois Farraige’, an 18m VS, which had eluded him the day before.

We wrapped up the day's climbing around 20:30, close to sunset. After packing up our gear, we headed back to our hostel for a well-deserved rest and more planning for the following day.

Sunday at Malinbeg - Ashley

After a nice lie in, the second day at Malin beg started with a lot more sunshine! While Michael and Manfei chatted to the local farmer about our climbs, the rest of the group wandered south of the tower to the keel slabs. While there were some nice V diffs to practice leading, the abseil in looked very committing, and we would’ve needed to have a hanging belay. This would’ve been quite intense for our group of newbie trad climbers, so we decided to head back to the main crag.

Multiple ascents Photo credit: Louisa.

Michael started the day off strong with his lead of the Bosuns Ladder, with Kyle racing him on the route just to the left-Shaky Rigging. Manfei ticked off her second trad lead with ‘The Hulk’. Still looking to get a few climbs in after her run up Sliabh Liag, Vicky jumped on ‘Jib’, a VS with a daring overhang but with spectacular views. Stephanie managed to avoid the green puddle below ‘David Banner’ to a finish with a strenuous pull up to the top. Ashley got her first Severe lead with Anger Management, the start was a breeze but the last few metres were barren for any gear placement. As our day was slowly coming to an end, a friendly rock pipit followed Louisa up Bosuns ladder.

Sunday at Sail Rock - Jamie

The sun rose in Donegal, and the climbers with it, a few hours later of course. Due to Sail rock being a small crag with only two doable routes, the Sail rock team was small and originally included Kyle until I expressed my interest in going and changed to me, who was now the responsible one for the group…joy. In addition to me, Callum, Josh, and Sevan were also heading to sample the magnificent climbing of Sail rock, also Vicky wanted a lift to run or something.

Left: Sevan abbing into Sail Rock. Right: Jamie leading Roaring Forties. Photo credits: Jamie and Callum.

Callum and Josh decided to tackle Main Mast (E2 5b/c), while me and Sevan decided to do Roaring Forties (VS 4c). The rock was f**king baking, with no clouds in sight. Sevan had brought a small bag down with him, which I was most grateful for since drinking water made the 3-pitch route in the sun a lot more bearable. I was in shorts and a shirt, of course Sevan was shirtless. To Vicky and Kyle (I know you are reading), after now doing the actual first two pitches of Roaring Forties, I can say it is a lovely climb, unlike the dumpster fire we originally did, f**k that shit. Sevan led the last pitch (the best part and hardest pitch of the route) and considering it was his first VS lead, I was very impressed. We both eventually got to the top and met (a very dehydrated) Callum topping out of Main Mast, another very impressive lead being Callum’s first ‘proper’ E2 lead (shut up Kyle, it isn’t E1) and Josh (also dehydrated) followed suit soon afterwards. I don’t know if the plan was originally to just do one route and then head home at a reasonable time, but everyone non-verbally decided to do each other’s routes.

We all abseiled down to the incredible basin of Sail rock, Callum and Josh setting off up Roaring Forties, and me and Sevan deciding it best to wait in the sun while another other party was progressing up Main Mast. Talking to Sevan, I learned that he has a life threatening allergy to wasp stings, to which I replied, ‘glad I know that’, to which Sevan said, ‘I thought I already told you about it?’ and I uttered, ‘probably, but I’m glad I know it again’. After baking in the sun for too long, we made our way up Main Mast (lovely and shady now), while Callum and Josh got up Roaring Forties (still in the sun). All tired and satisfied, we started packing up for the journey home, except for our local Mad Dog (Sevan), who seemed more hyper than when we started, decided to walk to the viewpoint (further up from the carpark than the crag), then came back shirtless, and then decided he wanted to run back to the visitors’ carpark instead of driving down. Never I have I meant someone with so much energy.

Anyway, we got back to cars and headed back to Belfast and arrived at about 2300, work was not fun the next day. Interestingly, Sevan never did meet us back at the visitors’ carpark and we didn’t see him again. I’ve heard people say that on a clear night, when there is a full moon, you can sometimes see a Mad Dog running across the hills of Donegal, never stopping.

Video credit: Concerned member of the public.

Connemara Trip Report Easter 2024

Trip Report by John L

Trip Participants: Vicky W, Kyle S, Lisa D-K, Rónán D-K, John L, Aimee S, Owen L, Callum Y, Rob B, Sarah B, Manfei Y, Michael B, Alistair M and Cillian B

29th March – 1st April 2024

Our Easter trip was based in the Ben Lettery Hostel which was a great base from which to explore the Twelve Bens.

Most participants arrived around late Friday afternoon and Vicky and Rónán even had time to squeeze in a run to the top of Ben Lettery and back.

View from Ben Lettery on Friday Evening. Photo Credit: Rónán

That evening, Lisa’s dinner of bacon and mushroom pasta was much enjoyed, and those who didn’t help Lisa with cooking it had plenty of dishes to wash afterwards. We then played 6nimmt which Kyle won.

The weather forecast for the weekend was very changeable with the general view that the Norwegian forecast seemed to tell us what we most wanted to hear, closely followed by Met Eireann.

One group (Aimee, Sarah, Owen, Cillian, Alastair and John) decided to climb Ben Breen via Cloud Rake whilst Vicky, Lisa, Manfei, Kyle, Rónán and Michael decided to try the more technical Ragged Ridge (Diff/V Diff) on Derryclare.

View up to Ragged Ridge, Michael on the Ridge, Rob & Manfei on the Ridge. Photo Credits: Kyle & Rob

Lake on Top of Derryclare. Photo Credit: Rónán

Cloud Rake was a diagonal ramp that ran underneath the North Face of Ben Breen. From a distance an uncomplicated scramble running through complex cliffs looked improbable but once we got to the start the scrambling was straightforward, if a little loose, and finished near the summit. The threatened rain never appeared, and the views were about as good as they could be with endless summits, lakes and of course the Atlantic Ocean (next land America) as a backdrop.

The group ascending cloud rake. Photo Credit: Owen

All returned to the Hostel safe and sound where after dinner we played 6nimmt and Kyle won…again. We then moved on to telestrations where we learned that a thick black line is not two bears facing a black brick.

On paper, Sunday had a slightly better forecast than Saturday. Two teams (Callum, Cillian and Rob; Owen, Alastair and John) decided to have go at Carrot Ridge; whilst Vicky, Lisa & Kyle tackled the Glencoaghan Horseshoe which involved 15k of distance with over 1700 meters of climbing (and descending). As if that wasn’t enough, Rónán planned to run it. Our horsehoe completioners battled scree and scramble with our walkers seeing the frequent welcome mark of a Rónán shaped mudclaw. Aimee, Sarah, Manfei and Michael planned on a more leisurely day exploring the best bits of the horseshoe.

Glencoaghan Horsehoe appreciation from Derryclare. Photo Credit: Rob

Carrot Ridge did not disappoint. The rock was compact with secure juggy holds most of the way up which balanced the somewhat spaced protection on some of the pitches - especially Callum’s first pitch which had almost no protection anywhere. Long rocky ridges as good as this are a rarity in Ireland and it was a real treat to climb it. Both teams got off the ridge just before the rain and wind started and despite the harrowing (for those with old knees) steep scree/bog/scheugh descent the day was a top quality and memorable mountaineering adventure.

John on Carrot Ridge. Photo Credit: Owen

Once back at the Hostel, dinner was Vicky’s Sausages, Potatoes and Vegetables which went down a treat. We then sang Happy Birthday to the cook and Kyle presented her with his carefully baked Victoria Sponge birthday cake-complete with digital i-phone candle.

To prevent Kyle getting a hat trick of 6nimmt wins, we played Codenames instead in the ‘comfy room’ after tea.

To have two days of dry clear weather in March in Connemara is a rare privilege and there is no doubt that Belfast Climbing Club made the very most of it, forging happy memories that will last a lifetime. After all, quality routes enjoyed with good companions is what climbing is all about.

All on the weekend would like to extend thanks to Vicky for all the organizing, allowing the weekend to work as well as it did, the chefs for their meals, and the drivers who brought us there and back!

The Group outside Ben Lettery Hostel. Photo Credit: Callum

Costa Blanca Trip Report 2024

Trip Report - Costa Blanca Sport Climbing (yet also somehow a lot of trad climbing) Trip

By Josh T. Also contributions from Callum Y and Ashley L.

For me the much anticipated Costa Blanca trip started with an extremely cramped, extremely early run to the airport on Saturday with Sevan, Callum, Owen and Paul (who thought a 4 am start was a good idea again…?). Nevertheless, spirits were high and after arriving in sunny Alicante we jumped in “the doctor” with Callum at the wheel. We quickly dumped bags at the Orange House and headed straight out to Culo de Rino at Sella. Memories of that afternoon get hazy as sleep deprivation kicked in, but we all got our eye in on some “easy” leads (some feeling slightly desperate with the polish…). Callum and I also successfully top-roped Vino d’Oporto, 6c (ably led by Kyle of course), reassuring us the trip wouldn’t be a complete write off…

Right: The first of many new tinder photos for Peter on the belay of Marión, 5a. Left: Kyle showboating while coming around the lip of the overhang on Cardo Borriquero Ex, 6c+. Photo Credit Callum Y & Michael B

On Sunday, feeling far better rested, we all headed back for a full day at Sella. After a quick warm up Callum and I got stuck into Cuidado Con Mi Sombrero, 6a+ (originally thought it was a 6b…to become a running theme of the trip), each managing to lead it clean after some practice (and Callum taking his first outdoor lead fall!). I then went off to belay Kyle on Cardo Borriquero Ex, 6c+, taking an intimidating looking line under a large roof (with only a small amount of showboating from Kyle coming round the lip). Then it was time for me to try hard on the excellent La Cosa, 7a (or 6c+...depending on which guidebook you choose to believe), getting it clean after some crucial beta from Kyle. Other highlights of the day were Ashley and Conor both getting their first outdoor leads and Callum managing to find one of the few “trad” multipitch routes at the crag (Marión, 5a) and quickly get it ticked with Peter as the sun was setting. 

Left: The first of many ridges for Paul and Owen at Toix ; Middle: Sevan chilling on Amor Bruja.; Right: The race up the pillar at Sax. Photo Credits: Owen L, Callum Y and Kyle S

Monday saw the group splitting up, with one team heading off to Sierra de Toix for either adventurous ridge scrambling or more chilled single pitching. I joined the Sax multi-pitching crew, and after arriving at the crag (with only a couple of minor navigation errors in the doctor) Paul K and I set our sights on climbing the prominent tower at the far end of the crag up the excellent Carrasco, 5a. After two pitches of thoroughly enjoyable and well equipped climbing (despite Rockfax’s advice to bring nuts), plus one rope-stretching abseil, Paul and I opted to continue our type 1 fun afternoon with Blanes, 4c (basically just as hard as Carrasco as far as we could tell!). Peter and Michael were on a similar wavelength, starting with Blanes (with Michael getting his first multipitch lead in on P2!) and finishing up Carrasco. Meanwhile, Vicky and Kyle had made it up Amor Brujo, 6a+, with only minor communication issues on the intimidating second pitch (“SLACK!!!”). Callum and Sevan promptly followed, with Callum nobly leading the apparently harder 1st pitch leaving Sevan to finish the route with “the scariest lead of my life”. Of course, Kyle decided to finish the day with a monster two pitch 7a+ (Quirofano de la Meurte) done in one rope length on his handy 80m single. However, a lack of volunteers to second meant a definitely-not-sketchy single-mallion abseil became necessary to retrieve gear….

Left: Conor keeping his cool . Right: Owen and Vicky getting simultaneously stuck on Malvinas (6b+) and Gibralter (6b+). while Conor cruises Irlande del Norte (6a+). Photo Credits: Michael B

Tuesday rolled around with the latest incarnation of Gold Team setting off early for the big objective of Espolón Central, 4c, on Puig Campana, sure to be back in plenty of time for beers in Finestrat...The rest of the group set off (some time later) for Guadalest. After a quick warm up I resolved to spend most of the day falling off Territorios Ocupados, 7a (or 6c, thank you again Costa Blanca Climbs) with patient belaying from Michael, until Kyle again found the crucial beta that let me finally lead the route. Meanwhile, the rest of the group took advantage of some of the more impressive routes on offer, with multiple ascents of Irlanda del Norte, 6a+ (had to be done!), Gibraltar, 6b, and Marina Baixa, 6b (including the awkward but entertaining cave at the end of P1). Michael and I then ended the day each leading P1 of the fantastic Erotika, 6a, as the sun began to set, finishing up in time to meet the rest of the team for a quick beer in the picturesque town before heading back to the hostel. Night was drawing in on the drive back, and as we passed Puig Campana we couldn’t help but notice headlamps flashing on the face…surely the other team couldn’t still be on the route?

———————————————————

Gold team guide to Puig Campana

Team members:

Callum Young - thinks trad season begins in January

Seven Houston - dislikes Craigavon

Peter Adamson - secret YouTube millionaire

Paul Kelly - word based board game extraordinaire

The night before:

The route, approach and descent was analysed, 9 minute drive to the car park from the hostel and a 1hr hike to the base. We had heard the descent could be treacherous in parts, although the addition of a via ferrata style cable covering the traverse section had improved things massively. We note that sunrise in Finestrat is 07:45 and decide that a leaving time of 07:00 is appropriate. Sevan scrolls through his 237 preset alarms to find the perfect wake up time and we all head to bed for an early night.

Day of the climb

06:00 - Paul, Sevan and I are up early, ready to seize the day.

06:55 - Peter tactically arises 5 minutes before departure time.

07:05 - Gold team piles into The Doctor*, which immediately alerts us we are about to run out of fuel and screams its usual warning that the smart key cannot be detected despite being directly on top of the sensor.

07:15 - Arrive at carpark, in the distance we can see the torches of a team already at the base, “Wow they’re keen, I bet they got up as early as possible to make sure nobody holds them up”.

08:00 - 15 minutes from the base, Sevan has a code brown and immediately scurries off to resolve the issue.

08:20 - Arrive at base. We discover that the group we saw from the carpark was actually a 3 and they were still on P1. We decided we should try and pass them after P4 where there is a short 10m pitch on easy terrain.

08:45 - Group ahead starts to lead P2 so Peter kicks off P1 with Paul. Sevan and I go up after.

11:00 - 4 pitches down we realise its actually quite awkward to overtake people as two pairs. Peter has a chat with the first team who are all sound and open to an overtake, but we’re not really sure how to do it as they had already started the next pitch by the time all 4 of us were on the easy terrain of P5. We decide the current pace is probably fine and tell ourselves we’ll try another overtake at the P9 lunch ledge if time is looking short.

13:00 - The sun is shining and the climbing is great, the views and exposure continue to get better.

13:45 - I watch from the top of P7 as Sevan wrestles with an overcammed Black Diamond C4 for a good 10 minutes in an attempt to start his trad rack, but is unsuccessful.

15:00 - All of Gold team is now on the lunch ledge, but similarly to last time the first team had already started the next pitch so we ended up remaining behind them. At this stage we realised we would likely be walking out in the dark.

“We’ll probably get off the scree slope before we’d need the head torches, right?”

15:15 - Progress grinds to a halt. The team in front had some route finding issues on P10 and by the time Sevan and I were able to leave the lunch ledge we had spent almost 2hrs there. During this time we discuss our favourite films, the strangest places we’ve visited and how glad we all were that Sevan made his bowel movement before we got on the wall.

“Ok so we won’t be off the scree slope before dark but at least we’ll get the via ferrata done with the last bit of light, right??"

17:30 - I top P10 to find Peter and Paul along with two members of the first team still there, apparently their original leader for the pitch backed off so they did a swap.

“Alright so this isn’t great but SURELY we’ll finish climbing before we’re out of light, right???”

18:30 - I get started on P11. Thank God I charged that head torch.

18:45 - Sundown, a glorious sunset and great company means morale remains high.

19:15 - Head torches officially come out, this sends Sevan into a psych induced mania that lasts the rest of the night “This is the best day ever”. First team seemed to have picked up the pace quite a bit here despite the pitches being long.

20:20 - After leading the last 2 pitches in the dark all of Gold team tops out.

20:25 - Started on the via ferrata, the first team stuck around near the top to make route finding easier for us which was a nice gesture and very much appreciated.

20:45 - 20 minutes into the via ferrata Sevan asks if we’re allowed to lean on the metal cable or if that’s considered cheating…

21:30 - Arrive at scree slope, Peter: “That via ferrata was terrible I never thought I’d be so glad to get on scree”

21:31 - 60 seconds later the reality of walking downhill through scree in the dark hits Peter “Maybe we all fell to our deaths on that climb and this scree is just Hell”

21:40 - Peter: “I have invented a new sport called screeing and decided this isn’t so bad”

21:45 - We are all a bit dehydrated at this point, I watch Paul pull out a bottle of lemon Aquarius isotonic drink with a few sips left in it and have never been more jealous in my life.

22:30 - Gold team gets back to the car.

22:40 - Arrived back at The Orange House, special shout out to Vicky and Kyle who graciously donated their dinner for the night to us. Also a shoutout to Peter who made the worlds best pasta by accidentally dumping half a salt shaker into in while boiling.

22:50 - Sevan does everyones dishes in a desperate attempt to burn off some of his psyche induced energy to no avail.

11:00 - Bedtime

Best day of the trip?

Learnings

- Read the signs early when there’s a notable speed contrast between groups and act fast, especially when they’re cooperative. Really we should have made a concrete plan with the first group to overtake after P4 but our lack of urgency cost us in the end.

- Gold team rules!

*Our weird Italian branded Chinese rental car was a DR 4.0, lovingly dubbed The Doctor

Left: Paul K, Middle: The crew about to start, Right: Callum in despair. Photo Credits: Callum Y & Sevan H

——————————————————————————————

It was an early start for me on Wednesday as I joined the second group to tackle Espolón Central on Puig Campana. Taking the lesson from the previous days’ escapades we left as early as possible to ensure we were first on the wall, thrashing up the ascent path to arrive at the base by 8 am without another soul in sight. From there Paul G and Owen graciously let Kyle and I set off first, assuming Kyle would be driving us up the wall in record time. As it turned out my more “steady” (read: slow) style almost exactly cancelled out Kyle’s “enthusiastic” (read: unprotected) approach as we swung leads, and our two teams remained neck and neck up most of the route….Nevertheless we all made it up with minimum fuss and in good time (“you can finish that sandwich while you belay can’t you?”). A particular highlight for me was the beautifully airy pitch 6 (which Paul and Owen skipped, opting for a gully scramble instead?!), while we all agreed the descent down a slightly sketchy via ferrata and too-long scree slope could absolutely do one. Upon making it back to the car, Kyle and I smugly noted the time (4:30) and graciously decided not to rub it in Gold Team’s faces (at least not immediately…) and headed off for a cold beer in Finestrat.

Paul topping out and the Not Gold Team starting in the cold cloudy morning. Photo Credits: Owen L

Too much posing in Gandia to describe. Photo Credits: Peter A and Callum Y

On Thursday morning it was time to say goodbye to Michael who was off to meet friends in Granada (and mostly climb indoors as it turned out). As heartbroken as we all were, the promise of Tania arriving that afternoon kept our spirits high enough to get out climbing, with the main contingent off to Gandía while Vicky, Kyle, Paul G and Owen headed to Sierra de Toix to sample the adventurous routes of Magical Mystery Tour, 5a, and Parle, 6a+. The day at Gandía got off to a good start with most warming up on some of the easier routes to the left hand end of Sector Hidraulics, including multiple ascents of the hilarious but short lived tube of Patxi Saez, 5a. Meanwhile I convinced Paul K to join me in trying hard on Assassí de vampiros, 7a (a proper one this time, maybe even 7a+ according to some locals!). However, after some valiant attempts and a decent amount of air time we both admitted defeat and went down to join the rest of the gang in Sector Fundicio. Here Callum had been diligently working the burly Amarrada al pilló, 6b+, finally getting it clean at the end of the day. There were also multiple ascents of the less steep but still strenuous El Ser, 5, and Bombero Gorilero, 6a, by Peter, Sevan and Tania.

Left: The ascent of Parle. Right: Sevan posing on Magical Mystery Tour (on top rope….). Photo Credits: Peter A

Friday saw a return to Sierra de Toix for most of us, while Vicky, Kyle, Owen and Paul G set off on the exciting but logistically challenging El Realet. Upon arrival Conor and I quickly made a beeline to the start of Cilber, 5c, to make a start on the Toix Ridge. Meanwhile Mike, Ashley and Tania headed off for some relaxed single pitching and Peter, Paul, Sevan and Callum set off to take their turn on Magical Mystery Tour, 5a and Parle, 6a+ (sure to finish in the daylight this time, right?). Conor and I completed the ridge (and Conor’s first multipitch experience!) in decent time despite some faff on the narrow section and met back up with Mike, Ashley and Tania. As the sun began to set we let Gold Team know we were finishing up, only to discover they were in fact still on the route (making the most of their investment in headtorches I suppose?) so we left them to it, piling into Tania’s rented mini for a slightly cramped trip back to the hostel.

Saturday, sadly, brought our last day of climbing for the trip. After a small amount of back and forth, we eventually split into three groups, with Owen, Paul G and Ashley heading off the Peñón (only to be thwarted by the permit system!), another group heading to Marín, and Kyle, Vicky, Tania and I aiming to go and try hard at Forada. Unfortunately, a navigational mishap sent the Forada crew up a very steep (but thankfully paved) mountain road, only to find we were in completely the wrong place…Upon realising that correcting the error would take too long we bailed to Marín to join the others. Upon arrival we found Sevan accidentally completing his hardest lead of the trip (El Vuela de Abuelo, 6b) thanks to the “encouragement” of Mike (“it’s a 5 something Sevan”) while Paul K, Callum, Peter and Conor tackled a selection of the more adventurous multipitches on offer.

On Sunday, following a slightly frantic clear out of the fridge at the hostel, it was finally time to say goodbye to Costa Blanca and its sun-drenched limestone. Despite the temptation to cancel our return flights we all made it back to the airport and then it was back to reality! Of course the only thing to do after such a great trip is to start planning the next one….I’m sure we’ll be back!

—————

Unsure what crag to go to - Read Ashley’s poetic account of each crag including accounts of many hiccups!:

Sella: While we were still weary from the early flight, we were determined to get some climbing in on the first day! It was Ashley's first outdoor climbing experience, and she found herself inadvertently starting to lead a 6A route(supposed to be a 4!). Despite that hiccup, Sella proved to be an excellent spot for new climbers, offering a huge variety of routes and solid bolting. The rock isn’t too sharp, although there is a bit of polish in some places. 

 Our first day at Sierra de Toix started out with a bit of a hiccup, we took a wrong turn but found the most specular viewpoint. The crag at Sierra de Toix was absolutely baking in the winter sun, water sparkling down below, with houses jutting out of the side of the cliffs. Black wheatear and Sardinian warblers chirped away while we ate our lunch. Toix was a perfect place to achieve a large number of lower-grade climbs in a quick succession, as routes were spaced very close to one another. However, first bolts were often placed 4+ metres above the belay point, proving to be unnerving at the start. La cagona, or ‘the pooper’ in English, was a fun but polished route that had one big, reach-y move. 

 The crag at Guadalest is home to the infamous routes of the Territorios Ocupados. As you would expect, there was a queue to climb Irlanda del Norte, a very pumpy route that caused quite a bit of rock fall. After quite a few challenging routes, we wandered into the town of Guadalest. We walked along cobbled streets opening to a massive reservoir, with oddly aquamarine water. We stopped in a small café for some crisp beer to soothe our sore muscles.

 Echo Valley had an exciting scramble up to the crag. It was the most peaceful of crags, little sound carried in the valley, contrary to its name. 

 Paul, Owen, and Ashley tried to make their way up the Peñon, however they were turned away as all of the tickets for the day had been claimed. Not wanting to risk the 600 euro fine, they decided to head to try a multi-pitch at Mascarat. After an easy 20 metre abseil off of a bridge, they started their climb from a small ledge above a gorge. Crag martins were flying above and below us as curious hikers took photos of us unexpected climbers. Throughout the course of our multi-pitch route, the silence was punctured by screams of adrenaline seekers swinging off a 100m bridge. While the Boulder Terminar was intended to be 6 pitches, the first three pitches were quite challenging with a slabby transverse and limited bolting. After 3 pitches the group decided to scramble down to the road to make sure we could make it to Serena’s for one last big dinner.

.———-