Trip Report by Tania J-L
Trip Participants: Eva K, Mags O, Ash O’B, Peter A, Tania J-L, Vicky W, Josh T, Kyle S, Chris C, Callum Y, Paul K, Ashley L, Gemma K, Gemma L, Mike McC, Cillian B, Daniel B, Vicky P, Adam W, Michael B, Richard M, Louisa S
Introduction and Day 1.
I joined the club a year ago, and from the beginning, I heard stories about the legendary Gola and its magnificent microclimate and sweet seaside crags. I prepared myself for it, and as new slightly-mediocre-but-still-semi-competent trad climber, I was looking forward to lead my first VS.
After going through every season of the year on our 3 hours journey, Peter and I finally got to the harbor, only to miss the ferry while seeing our friends sailing away. We got to cross half an hour later, and after two trips to bring our stuff to the campsite, we finally got to settle and join the lovely colony of climbers formed by our crew by the beach.
Gola doing it’s thing and being picturesque: Photo Credits: Ashley & Chris
Now, heading to the crag! I heard about Run of the Arrow (VS 4b), a legendary route right by the sea only accessible through abseil, therefore, I didn’t hesitate to join Callum on his quest to lead it. It was a nice climb, slightly wet with a scary first move to access the rest of the route. It was my favorite climb of the trip, with beautiful sights, cool moves and it sure helped make nice pictures! Amazing warm up and perfect introduction to what Gola had to offer.
Adam Topping out, seeming happy I guess. Photo Credit: Paul K
After a sweet climb on Run of the Arrow, Callum was ready to try harder things, and me ready to second him, so we headed up to do Born Again Climber (E1), a wet route with a bouldery crux, which Callum led like a champ. After that scary and pumpy climb, Callum wanted to venture into something lighter, an HVS, that looked a bit (of course) wet. He started his climb pretty relaxed ready for a more chilled experience, that is until he said: “this is harder than the E1 we just did… I don’t think this is a HVS” …. That got us, Louisa (who just joined us for this climb), and I, in alert mode, as we saw our superstar leader struggling in what was supposed to be a chilled climb. Also, it didn’t help that the crux was slippery and soaking. Anyway, he got out of the crux and finished his climb feeling pumped and confused. Me and Louisa struggled and had to take a break after the crux. My arms were pretty pumped and I felt that it was definitely not a HVS. It was an E2, Castaway, and my spoiled used-to-do-sport-climb-under-dry-conditions ass felt conned but still, satisfied.
You too can be strong like Callum. Believe in yourself. Photo Credits: Michael
Back to the camp, Peter and I were ready to start our big BBQ plan and join the craic by the fire. Ohhhhh, how we were looking forward to grill some yummy burgers and enjoy a few drinks with the rest of the crew… The weather wasn’t the best, but living on this side of the world gets you prepared to embrace a few drops, so we lit our disposable BBQ grills, and put our patties (I will die on a hill for this, Michael!) on it. Everything cool, a bit of wind but we got our grills lit, then… the drops started multiplying, and the number of friends reducing. More drops and less friends with every passing second. Yep, the weather in the mainland must have been sunshine cause the microclimate of Gola gave us a monsoon. While waiting for our burgers to cook, the time was passing slower than holding a plank, but our heroes Ashley and Michael stood by our side with their umbrellas, protecting the grills. Our clothes, shoes and even our buns were soaking, but the fire was still on.
Gripple Wall, Day 2 but the weather wasn’t as good Day 1. Photo Credit: Chris
After a while of natural showers, we decided we didn’t want to keep torturing our friends and relieved them of duty. Michael left his umbrella to help us fulfill the mission. Peter patties were taking ages to cook, but mine, by divine intervention maybe, or because they were veggie based, were cooking very fast, hence, as soon as they were done, I took my burgers and did what every sane person would do: abandoned my grill partner and ate my burgers in the comfort of my tent.
Not willing risking getting E. Coli, Peter stayed until his patties were well done. Who knows when that happened, but he sent a picture of them after, and he’s still alive! So, it all turned out fine in the end. Except, I discovered my shoes weren’t waterproof anymore, and… I felt conned for the second time that day.
Day 2.
After surviving what seemed like the second universal flood, I was ready to get more climbs. As usual, I relied on the wisdom of my fellow more experienced trad climbers, which means I didn’t check the guidebook, and to be fair, for this trip it worked well, as I was down for anything within my abilities.
Meanwhile at NW Zawn, abs were proving…..Photo Credit: Peter A
After being briefly tempted to join Vicky, Josh and others in their quest to (don’t remember the name of the crag), I decided to go to the Inland Crag with another group, as It would allow me to practice my anchoring and gear placement. Ready to lead, I armed myself with the gear that Vicky graciously lent me and recruited my homie Gemma “Lovely” Locke to be my belayer. I was not leaving that crag without leading a VS. We started with Pigs Garden (S 4a) as a nice warm up. Then we did Weathered Window (HS 4b), a slightly more difficult route in which my gear placement abilities were put to test. Now it was time to do Get of the Bandwagon (VS 4a), and after receiving good advice from Cillian, I ventured myself into it. The gear placement was a real struggle for me, and I only could put 3 pieces of gear in the whole route, which made me realize I’m probably not ready to lead harder climbs yet (sorry, Vicky).
Meanwhile, right next to me, superhero Gemma “Kind” Kane was rocking (no pun intended) her first E1 lead, Days of Wine and Roses (E1 5a). It was a tough battle, but she came out victorious and became our personal feminist icon.
A day at inland crag, Gemma conquering an E1 and Mags showing that’s she’s really a dirty caver and just wants to find a corner. Photo Credits: Ash and Michael.
Meanwhile at the NW Zawn, Kyle on Vanishing Point. Photo Credit: Peter
After a quick lunch break and a sweet welcome to Mags, Ash and Eva who just arrived to join the fun, we head down to the Gripple wall. With no goal in mind except having fun, Louisa and I decided to second Gemma K. on Maid of Gola (HS), one of the island’s classics.
The night came and we finally got the nice firepit hangout we missed out the night before. We were lucky to share our space with the nice folks of the Cork Climbing Club, as well. The fire was glorious, and the majestic sunset by the beach made for the perfect time and scenario to give our little goodbye present to our departing member Josh “Ginger Beast” Taujanskas, who put everyone on the verge of tears with his emotional speech.
Campfires by sunset and the improntu Cork-Belfast Climbing Club Meet, Photo Credits: Callum & Ash
Goodbye, Josh ☹
Day 3 (the end)
Happy shiny (crazy) people in the water. Photo Credit: Tania
After 2 days of absence, the sun finally decided to make an appearance. At around 9 am, resident aliens Gemma K, Gemma L, Michael, Louisa and Daniel submerged their masochist bodies in the freezing waters of the Atlantic. I still struggle to comprehend why would anyone do that to themselves, but they looked happy, so to each their own.
After a hearty social breakfast by my tent, most of the climbers decided to go to the Main Wall, although different area this time. The crag was not only a great climbing spot, but also perfect for sunbathing.
Vicky on Shagamorant and Cillian on Run of the Arrow. Photo Credits: Callum
I teamed up with Louisa and Ash, while Gemma K showed her infinite kindness by lending us her gear. Not in the mood to lead anything over a S, we decided to try “Hexes from Heaven” (S 4a), a route Mike and Richard were already working on. When our turn was up and after taking a glimpse of the guidebook, we went for it. To say we were confused would be an understatement. I started on a dark crack under a roof, moved towards the left, and then just kept going until the drag was too heavy to be normal. I had to come back to take some gear off and place it in a different area. It was a struggle until I finally came out of somewhere. Louisa and Ash came out through the same spot I did, and after talking to Mike (who also came out through the same place), we realized we most likely did not do the intended route and did something else instead. Lesson learned: always take a good look at the guidebook before starting a new route.
Time was running out for me and other climbers that needed to catch the ferry at 4 pm. So, after a bit of thought and not without having a few bites of the heavenly flapjacks that Paul made, I decided to head back to the camp to pack. Peter joined later, and this time we were able to cross to the mainland at the scheduled time. Goodbye and see you next year, beautiful Gola.
Goodbye (for now) Gola
Video Credit- Ash